THE HEALING WAND
For Use with Lesions and Superficial Conditions
Subject: healing device specs
*****there is a diagram included.
zeropoint:
Here are the instructions on how to construct the wand. I have named it the
Carrigan Wand after Ken Carrigan who designed the circuit. It is very simple
to build having only a few parts.
About two years ago Ken Carrigan developed a novel circuit that I have
finally put together and tested. The device works very well on skin and
shallow problems. I have used it to help with my sinuses for instance. I don't
know at this time if it penetrates deeply. Ken reported about a year ago that
the lamp removed some sort of lesion from his wives arm in one exposure.
The device is basically a modulated low voltage quartz lamp. Ken developed
this circuit on the assumption that the wave from an R/B device could get
into electronics and cause some microscope lights to re emit the wave . A
hypothesis based on why some microscopes seem to give good results when
used with the device and others do not. The light source was possibly
modulating the MOR.
When operating, the device produces AM radio broadcast band harmonics
that extend about 3 to 4 feet from the bulb . The emitted wave can easily be
picked up on my AM radio . The light does not blink or strobe with the
applied frequency as does the R/B tube. Above about 50 Hz or so the light
is on continuously. By holding the bulb up closely to your ear you can hear
the modulated tone.
The wand produces RF, light and modulates an MOR. The primary
differences between this and an R/B is that the light is very intense and
focused with this device, and the emitted wave is in a lower radio frequency
band.
Here is how to construct the basic circuit in Ken's' own words.
***********************************************
Really it is very simple. Take a low value MOSFET, rated to take the
frequency, current and voltage of your application. For my 12 Volt
Halogen bulb that takes 4.3 Amps (50 Watts) I used a Motorola TMOS
MTP50N05E which was rated 50 Volts, 25 Amps, .028 ohms ON, and
can dissipate 125 Watts. Overkill, yes, but I want to get a bulb later
that will produce 200 Watt at 12v. Then I'd like to test from a far
distance and see what happens.
Anyway, the TMOS has a (S)ource, (G)ate, and (D)rain. Hook the
Halogen bulb, one lead to +13.8 volts, the other hook to D. A resistor
of 2.7k ohms was hooked from G to S. Next S is the ground of power
source. Now, hook some leads off G and S. These leads are for your
signal generator. The S is the ground while G is the signal input. The
input needs about 6 volt squarewave referenced to ground. No
negative signal. That's it!
No frills yet - could make it with frills but not at this early stage. OH -
you may need a small heat sink for the MTP50N05E. You also could
sub it out with an IRFZ40 which may require less input voltage
(5 volts) to turn the Halogen on/off. Remember to use squarewaves -
sinewaves would heat the FET up too much and smoke it.
If I could, you should, I would also test for non results using a battery
hooked up for your light source, or a good EMI filter right up at the light
(common and differential mode coupling). I'll almost bet that you will
not get results if the microscope light was filtered. I can not test for
this right now since tube and setup is split in between places.
******************************************************
You may be able to use a readily available MOSFET from Radio Shack
for this project. I am presently using a 10 amp 13.8 volt plate type
power supply with a 50 watt lamp. The power supply will get really hot
with about 30 minutes run time. I would therefor consider this to be a
minimal size for use with a 50 watt lamp, even though there seems to
be plenty of surplus current available. Be certain to use a heat sink on
the MOSFET and use heat sink paste to couple it.
Desirable Parts:
50 watt 12 volt halogen lamp with reflector. These are small lamps with
about a 2" ( 50 mm ) wide glass reflector. Surprisingly, I've found the
flood type is better than the spot type lamp. The lamp is used about
4 to 6 inches from the treatment area. The flood lamps will focus down
pretty well while the spot lamp will not at this distance. The best lamps
are the ones without a UV shield on over the front of the lamp. This is a
glass plate over the front of the reflector. Get a lamp without the glass
shield. The lamp should only be the reflector and the bulb. Cost is from
3 to 9 dollars each - they all should work equally well regardless of price.
I use the Kinnaman square wave generator with the output upped to 5
volts to trigger the MOSFET. The Ramsey, Square one and the Lodestar
should work as well. The Geny-1 may not be able to produce this high a
voltage. I do not know about the Semoia. The lamp does not like to be
pulsed but used in a continuous mode of output. When first starting, my
power supply really squawks as the lamp comes to full brightness.
I have my lamp mounted in the end of a piece of 12" long X 3/4 " id
metal tubing and secured in place with some high temp silicone seal.
Available at auto parts stores. On the other end of the tube I place a
rubber chair leg tip . A small plastic box holds the MOSFET and a BNC
plug. Makes a nice little wand. The metal tubing tends to get hot and I
am thinking about adding some sort of wooden insulator to it.
/ Quartz
|----------------| / Lamp
| | _______________/
13.8VDC ------------ | MOSFET Box |----------| --- :
-----| | |_______________--- :
-----|----------------| \
BNC Metal Tube \
\
I found that my 10 amp power supply needed some added capacitance
across the output terminals to make a nice square wave output from the
light wand.
By adding a 10,000 uf electrolytic cap across the output terminals, the
square wave shaped up and became very nice and clean. There are
leading and trailing edge harmonic spikes on the square wave envelope.
Without the added capacitance the square wave envelope had a pretty
bad sag to it and a poor shape, although the leading edge harmonic was
very large.
Make certain the cap is at least 16 volts and you connect up the positive
side of the cap to the positive output terminal of the power supply. If you
get the cap in backwards it will explode!
A large (25 amp or greater ) plate type power supply should have enough
built in capacitance that the extra cap is not necessary.
Jim.
(Dr. James Bare)
A MORE
SOPHISTICATED DEVICE, easy to put together with Radio Shack parts and
an old computer
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